Things to Do in Novara

This is the one. Alessandro Antonelli's 121-metre dome — completed in 1878 after more than 30 years of construction — is one of the most audacious pieces of 19th-century engineering in Italy. The basilica itself dates from the 16th–17th centuries, but it's Antonelli's dome that steals the show: a soaring, layered structure of brick and stone that influenced skyscraper design worldwide. Climb the internal staircase (or take the lift for part of the way) to the cupola for views across the Po Valley to Monte Rosa and the Alps on clear days. The interior is rich with Baroque frescoes and a magnificent high altar. Go in the morning for the best light through the dome's windows.

Novara's medieval civic heart is a beautifully preserved ensemble of four buildings arranged around a central courtyard, built between the 12th and 15th centuries. The Arengo (the oldest structure, used for public assemblies), the Palazzo del Podestà, the Palazzo dei Paratici (guild hall), and the Palazzo del Comune together tell the story of Novara as a free medieval commune. The courtyard is free to enter and wonderfully atmospheric — look up at the terracotta friezes and Gothic windows. The buildings now house municipal offices and occasional art exhibitions. Visit on a weekday morning when the courtyard is quietly busy with civic life, exactly as it has been for eight centuries.

The cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, rebuilt by Antonelli between 1865 and 1869 in a grand Neoclassical style, stands on the site of a Roman temple — the columns from that temple are still visible in the cathedral's courtyard. But the real treasure here is the octagonal Baptistery, one of the oldest Christian buildings in Piedmont, dating to the early 5th century. Inside are fragments of early Christian frescoes and a haunting atmosphere of deep antiquity. The contrast between the austere Neoclassical cathedral and this tiny, ancient jewel beside it is one of Novara's most striking architectural experiences.

Built by the Visconti in the 13th century and expanded by the Sforza in the 15th, this brick castle anchors the eastern end of Piazza Martiri. It has served as fortress, residence, prison, and now museum — the Musei Civici house archaeological collections from the Roman Novaria period, medieval artefacts, and rotating art exhibitions. The courtyard and ramparts offer pleasant views, and the Galleria d'Arte Moderna Paolo e Adele Giannoni, housed in a wing of the castle, features a strong collection of 19th and 20th-century Italian painting. Even if you skip the museums, the castle's exterior and its relationship to the piazza are worth seeing.

Opened in 1888, Teatro Coccia is one of northern Italy's finest provincial opera houses. The horseshoe-shaped auditorium, with its four tiers of boxes and frescoed ceiling, is a jewel of late 19th-century theatre design. The theatre hosts a full season of opera, ballet, and classical concerts from October to June, with tickets substantially cheaper than at Milan's La Scala. Even if you don't attend a performance, guided tours (book ahead) reveal the backstage machinery and the theatre's history. The acoustics are superb — this is a working theatre, not a museum piece.

An unexpectedly rich collection of 19th and 20th-century Italian art donated by the Giannoni family. Includes works by the Macchiaioli (Italy's Impressionists), Divisionist painters, and Piedmontese landscape artists who captured the rice fields and Alpine foothills. The setting within the castle adds to the experience.

A Victorian-era natural history cabinet writ large — dioramas, taxidermy, mineral collections, and exhibits on the Ticino River ecosystem. Charming and slightly old-fashioned in the best way. Great for families, and the butterfly collection is particularly fine.

The cathedral museum houses liturgical objects, medieval manuscripts, and archaeological finds from Novara's Roman and early Christian periods. The real highlight is the 5th-century Baptistery itself, one of the oldest surviving baptisteries in northern Italy.

The Ticino River forms the eastern boundary between Piedmont and Lombardy, and the Parco del Ticino is one of Europe's largest river parks. From Novara, a well-marked 8km circuit follows the river through poplar and willow groves, wetlands, and ancient oak stands. The trail is flat and suitable for all fitness levels. Bring binoculars — the park is a major birdwatching site, with herons, kingfishers, and birds of prey common. Best in spring and early autumn when temperatures are mild and the foliage is at its best.

The Novara Hills, rising gently north of the city, produce some of Piedmont's most distinctive wines — Nebbiolo (locally called Spanna), Vespolina, and Uva Rara. A 12km circuit connects several DOC wineries through vineyard tracks and country lanes, with panoramic views to Monte Rosa on clear days. Many wineries welcome walk-in visitors for tastings (€10–15 for 3–4 wines). The route starts near the village of Boca (15km from Novara) and winds through Ghemme and Cavallirio. Best done in spring or autumn; summer can be hot on exposed hillsides.

Lake Orta, 35km northwest of Novara, is the smaller, more intimate sibling to Lake Maggiore — and many argue, the more beautiful. A 15km walking circuit (can be broken into shorter sections) circles the lake through medieval stone villages, chestnut woods, and lakeside promenades. The route passes through Orta San Giulio — arguably northern Italy's prettiest lakeside village — where you can take the short boat ride to Isola San Giulio, home to a 12th-century Romanesque basilica and a monastery. The 'Way of Silence' walking path on the island offers moments of extraordinary peace. Allow a full day for the lake, including lunch at a lakeside trattoria.

The obvious and outstanding day trip. Novara's position on the Turin–Milan high-speed line means you can be standing in Piazza del Duomo 25 minutes after leaving Novara station. Spend the day exploring the Duomo (book rooftop tickets in advance), the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Leonardo's Last Supper (book weeks ahead), the Brera district, and the Navigli canals. Return to Novara in the evening for a fraction of Milan's hotel prices and a far more relaxed dinner scene.

Piedmont's regal capital rewards a full day with its Baroque squares, the Mole Antonelliana (by the same architect as Novara's San Gaudenzio dome), the Egyptian Museum (one of the world's finest), and the city's extraordinary café culture. Turin's grid-plan streets and arcaded walkways make it one of Italy's most walkable cities. The royal palaces and the viewpoint from Superga basilica are essential.

Lake Maggiore's western shore is pure belle époque glamour. Stresa, the main resort town, is elegant with its lakefront promenade and grand hotels. From here, boats depart to the Borromean Islands: Isola Bella (Baroque palace and terraced gardens), Isola dei Pescatori (fishing village, excellent seafood restaurants), and Isola Madre (botanical gardens). The views across the lake to the Alps are spectacular. In summer, arrive early — Stresa's car parks fill by 10am.

Vercelli is Novara's rice-growing neighbour, surrounded by the largest expanse of rice paddies in Europe. The Basilica di Sant'Andrea is one of Italy's finest Romanesque-Gothic churches, and the city's agricultural markets are fascinating. During the Sagra del Riso (September–October), the whole city celebrates the harvest with tastings and events. A half-day trip works well, combined with a countryside drive through the rice belt.