Introduction — Why Novara Is a Food Destination
Novara is not a city that appears on most culinary tourism lists, and that's precisely what makes it exciting. While the world knows Piedmont for the truffle-scented hills of Alba and the Barolo vineyards of the Langhe, Novara quietly presides over a food culture that is equally deep, equally delicious, and far less discovered. This is the rice capital of Italy — the province produces more rice than any other in Europe — and that single agricultural fact ripples through every restaurant menu, every family kitchen, and every market stall in the city.
But Novara's culinary identity extends well beyond rice. The province sits at a crossroads of Piedmontese, Lombard, and even Alpine food traditions. You'll find gorgonzola cheese produced in local dairies, robust red wines from volcanic hills just north of the city, centuries-old biscuit recipes baked in the same ovens that supplied the Savoy court, and — most provocatively for visitors — tapulone, a slow-cooked donkey meat stew that divides opinion as firmly as any dish in Italy. This is a place where food is identity, where recipes carry the weight of generations, and where a simple plate of risotto can tell you everything about the landscape, climate, and history of this remarkable corner of Piedmont.
The Signature Dishes of Novara
🍚 Paniscia Novarese — The Rice King
If you eat one thing in Novara, let it be paniscia. This is not a delicate restaurant risotto — it's a robust, soupy rice dish born from peasant kitchens and agricultural labour. True paniscia novarese combines locally grown rice (traditionally a semi-firm variety like Carnaroli or Arborio) with borlotti beans, salami d'la duja (a soft, spreadable salami preserved in rendered pork fat), a generous splash of Barbera wine, and a soffritto of seasonal vegetables — typically cabbage, celery, carrots, and onions.
The result is a dish that sits somewhere between risotto and minestrone, heartier and more complex than either. Each family and each restaurant has its own version. Some add cotenne (pork rinds) for richness; others include fresh sausage or lard. The wine gives the dish a slight tang that cuts through the richness of the beans and salami. In Novara, paniscia is served year-round, but it's especially satisfying in autumn and winter, when the rice harvest is fresh and the chill in the air demands something warming.
Don't confuse paniscia with its near-neighbour panissa, the version from Vercelli. While the names are almost identical and both use rice and beans, the Vercelli version typically omits vegetables and uses a slightly different preparation. Locals in both cities will passionately defend their version as the original. As a visitor, the correct response is to try both.
🧀 Gorgonzola — Born in These Plains
The town of Gorgonzola near Milan may hold the name, but some of Italy's finest gorgonzola has historically been produced in the Novara province. The flat, humid landscape of the rice-growing plain provides ideal conditions for the blue-green Penicillium roqueforti mould that gives gorgonzola its distinctive character. Two styles dominate: gorgonzola dolce (sweet, creamy, mild — excellent spread on bread or melted into risotto) and gorgonzola piccante (aged longer, firmer, sharply pungent — a cheese for assertive palates).
In Novara, you'll find gorgonzola appearing across the menu — crumbled over salads, stirred into risotto, melted into sauces for gnocchi, or simply served with honey and walnuts as a dessert course. Several artisanal producers in the countryside outside Novara welcome visitors for tastings and tours. The combination of locally made gorgonzola with a glass of Ghemme DOCG is one of those pairings that reminds you why terroir isn't just a word — it's an experience.
🥩 Tapulone — The Controversial Classic
No honest food guide to Novara can avoid tapulone, though many sanitised tourism resources try. This is a stew made from donkey meat, slow-cooked with red wine, butter, onions, and spices until the meat is tender and deeply flavoured. The name likely derives from the local dialect word tapulé, meaning to chop finely — the meat is traditionally minced rather than served in chunks.
Tapulone has been a Novarese specialty for centuries, rooted in an era when donkeys were working animals on the rice farms and nothing was wasted. Today it remains on the menus of traditional restaurants, particularly in the smaller towns of the Novara province like Borgomanero and Boca. The flavour is rich, gamey, and tender — those who approach it with an open mind often find it one of the most memorable dishes of their Piedmont trip. It's typically served with polenta or as a filling for ravioli.
🍪 Biscottini di Novara — The Ancient Biscuit
These light, dry, golden biscuits have been baked in Novara since at least the 16th century, when they were made in the city's convents. Biscottini di Novara are made from a simple mixture of flour, sugar, and eggs — no butter, no oil — beaten to incorporate air, then baked twice (the word biscotto literally means "twice cooked"). The result is a biscuit that's crisp, extremely light, and almost translucent, with a delicate sweetness that makes it the perfect companion to a cup of coffee or a glass of dessert wine.
Several bakeries in Novara still produce biscottini using traditional methods. Look for them at Pasticceria Camporelli and other historic bakeries in the city centre. They make an excellent — and lightweight — edible souvenir to take home.
The Wines of Novara
Novara sits at the southern edge of a viticultural area that produces some of Piedmont's most underrated wines. While the world focuses on Barolo and Barbaresco to the south, the hills north of Novara — volcanic slopes left by ancient geological activity — grow Nebbiolo (locally called Spanna) that produces wines of remarkable elegance and complexity.
🍷 Ghemme DOCG
The crown jewel of Novara wines. Ghemme DOCG is a Nebbiolo-based red (minimum 85% Nebbiolo) that must be aged for at least 34 months, including 18 in oak. The best Ghemme wines are structured, aromatic, and age-worthy — floral and tar on the nose, firm tannins and bright acidity on the palate, with flavours of dried cherry, leather, and earth. Ghemme remains dramatically underpriced compared to Barolo, making it one of Italy's best wine values. Key producers to seek out include Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo, Torraccia del Piantavigna, and Rovellotti.
🍷 Colline Novaresi DOC
A broader appellation covering the hills around Novara, Colline Novaresi DOC produces reds, whites, and rosés from a range of local varieties. The most interesting are the single-varietal reds: Nebbiolo (Spanna), Vespolina (spicy, peppery, medium-bodied), and Uva Rara (lighter, fruity, an ideal everyday wine). These are not wines that demand cellaring — they're designed for drinking young alongside local food, and they do that job brilliantly. For whites, look for Erbaluce, a crisp, mineral-driven variety from the nearby hills that pairs beautifully with fish, risotto al burro, and fresh cheeses.
Where to Eat — Novara's Best Restaurants
Ristorante Cannavacciuolo Café & Bistrot
Antonino Cannavacciuolo — the Michelin-starred chef and Italian TV personality — operates this stylish café and bistrot in Novara. While his flagship restaurant Villa Crespi sits on Lake Orta, this city-centre outpost offers a more accessible taste of his cooking philosophy: elevated Piedmontese and Campanian flavours in an elegant but relaxed setting. The menu changes seasonally, with rice dishes that showcase local varieties alongside creative reinterpretations of regional classics. Booking is recommended, especially at weekends.
Osteria del Laghetto
A beloved local address serving honest, well-executed Novarese cooking in a warm, informal atmosphere. The paniscia here is excellent — rich, properly soupy, made with good quality beans and salami. The seasonal menu might include risotto with gorgonzola and walnuts, brasato al Ghemme (beef braised in local wine), or fresh pasta with ragù. The wine list focuses on Colline Novaresi and Ghemme producers, and the prices are remarkably fair. This is the kind of restaurant that makes you want to come back the next evening.
Trattoria dei Commercianti
A traditional trattoria in the heart of the old town that has been serving Novarese cooking for generations. The decor is unpretentious — checked tablecloths, bottle-lined shelves — and the food is the real thing. Paniscia, tapulone, bollito misto, and seasonal risottos make up the core of a menu that rarely changes because it doesn't need to. Portions are generous, prices are honest, and the atmosphere is pure neighbourhood Italy. Come at lunch when the place fills with office workers and regulars — it's a snapshot of daily Novarese life.
Ristorante Tantris
For a more contemporary dining experience, Tantris offers creative Italian cuisine that respects local ingredients while looking beyond the traditional repertoire. The chef sources rice, vegetables, and cheeses from the Novara countryside and applies modern techniques to create dishes that are visually striking and flavour-forward. The tasting menu is the best way to experience the range, and the wine pairings draw intelligently from the Colline Novaresi and broader Piedmont. A good choice for a special evening out.
Food Shopping & Markets
Novara's weekly market fills Piazza della Repubblica and surrounding streets every Saturday morning, with stalls selling local produce, cheeses, cured meats, and fresh pasta. For rice, visit one of the specialist shops that sell varieties direct from local mills — Carnaroli, Arborio, Vialone Nano, and the lesser-known Baldo and Sant'Andrea varieties, each with distinct cooking properties and flavour profiles.
Several gastronomie (delicatessens) in the centre stock curated selections of Novara's best products: gorgonzola from local dairies, salami d'la duja, biscottini di Novara, honey from the rice blossom, and bottles of Ghemme and Colline Novaresi wines. These shops are excellent for assembling a picnic or buying edible souvenirs. Ask the staff for recommendations — they're invariably passionate about local food and happy to guide you.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is paniscia novarese?
Paniscia novarese is Novara's signature risotto dish. It's made with locally grown rice, borlotti beans, salami d'la duja (a soft salami preserved in pork fat), Barbera wine, and seasonal vegetables like cabbage, celery, and carrots. Unlike a typical risotto, paniscia is heartier and more rustic — a one-pot meal that reflects the agricultural traditions of the rice-growing plains. It differs from the similar panissa of Vercelli, which typically omits the vegetables.
Did gorgonzola cheese originate near Novara?
While the town of Gorgonzola near Milan claims the cheese's name, much of Italy's finest gorgonzola has historically been produced in the Novara province, particularly around towns like Cameri and the surrounding countryside. The moist, cool climate of the area provides ideal conditions for the blue mould to develop, and several artisanal producers near Novara continue the tradition today.
What wines should I try in Novara?
The top wine from the Novara area is Ghemme DOCG, a structured Nebbiolo-based red that rivals Barolo at a fraction of the price. Also try Colline Novaresi DOC wines, which include Nebbiolo (locally called Spanna), Vespolina, and Uva Rara varieties. For whites, look for Erbaluce from the nearby hills. These wines pair beautifully with local rice dishes and cheeses.