La Spezia is far more than a transit stop on the way to Cinque Terre. This vibrant port city at the head of the Gulf of Poets has a medieval castle, world-class museums, one of Italy's most beautiful harbour promenades, and a food scene that rivals anywhere in Liguria. Combined with easy access to Cinque Terre, Portovenere, Lerici, and the Lunigiana hills, La Spezia offers enough to fill a week of exploration. Here is our complete guide to the best things to do.
Explore La Spezia City
1. Climb to Castello di San Giorgio
Start your visit with the climb through the old town's steep, narrow lanes to this 13th-century castle crowning the hill above the city. Originally built by Niccolò Fieschi and later expanded by the Genoese Republic, the castle now houses the Museo Civico Archeologico "Ubaldo Formentini" — a fascinating collection of prehistoric, Ligurian, and Roman artefacts excavated from the region. But the real star is the panoramic terrace: from here you look down over La Spezia's terracotta rooftops, across the harbour to Portovenere and the island of Palmaria, and on clear days as far as the marble peaks of the Apuan Alps above Carrara, 20km to the southeast.
2. Visit the Museo Tecnico Navale
Located near the imposing Arsenale Militare Marittimo — La Spezia's naval base, founded in 1869 — this is one of Italy's largest and most important maritime museums. The collection spans centuries of naval history: intricately detailed ship models from the age of sail, carved wooden figureheads, navigational instruments, torpedoes, diving equipment, and relics from Italy's World War I and II naval campaigns. The museum brings to life La Spezia's deep connection to the sea and its role as a major Mediterranean naval power. Allow at least 90 minutes.
3. Stroll Via del Prione
La Spezia's elegant pedestrianised main street is the place for the evening passeggiata — the Italian tradition of a leisurely stroll before dinner. Lined with boutiques, bookshops, cafés, and gelaterias, Via del Prione runs through the heart of the old town from Piazza Cavour to Piazza Beverini. Explore the side streets leading off it: you will discover hidden piazzas, artisan workshops, small galleries, and some of the city's best trattorias tucked away from the main drag. The street is also the route to the covered market — essential for food lovers.
4. Discover the Museo Lia
Housed in a beautifully restored 17th-century friary, the Museo Amedeo Lia contains one of Liguria's most impressive private art collections. Amedeo Lia, a local collector, amassed works spanning from the 13th to the 18th century, including paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Giovanni Bellini, Pontormo, and Pietro Lorenzetti. The collection also features medieval illuminated manuscripts, Renaissance bronzes, and Limoges enamels. It is a remarkably high-quality museum for a city of La Spezia's size and one of the most underrated art collections in northern Italy.
5. Walk the Passeggiata Costantino Morin
This beautiful palm-lined promenade stretches along La Spezia's waterfront, offering views across the harbour to Portovenere and the island of Palmaria. It is perfect for a morning jog, an evening stroll, or simply sitting on a bench watching the boats — from working fishing vessels and ferries to the sleek superyachts of Porto Mirabello. At sunset, the gulf turns gold and pink, and the lights of Portovenere begin to twinkle across the water. The promenade connects to Porto Mirabello's restaurant district, making it an ideal pre-dinner walk.
6. Browse the Mercato Coperto
La Spezia's covered market on Piazza Cavour is one of the best in Liguria. Open every morning except Sunday, the market is a sensory feast: stalls piled high with fresh fish straight from the gulf's boats, local cheeses, cured meats, seasonal vegetables, olives, dried herbs, and prepared foods. The fish section alone is worth the visit — seeing the day's catch laid out on ice, with fishmongers explaining what is best, connects you to the city's maritime soul in a way no museum can.
Day Trips from La Spezia
7. Cinque Terre by Train and Ferry
The reason most people come to La Spezia — and rightly so. The five villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare cling to the dramatic Ligurian coastline 15–30km northeast of the city. From La Spezia Centrale station, direct trains reach Riomaggiore in 5 minutes and Monterosso in 25 minutes, running every 15–30 minutes throughout the day. Buy a Cinque Terre Card at the station for unlimited train travel plus access to the hiking trails. Alternatively, take the ferry from La Spezia's waterfront terminal for a stunning coastal approach — seeing the villages from the sea, clinging to clifftops above turquoise water, is one of Italy's great travel moments. Our advice: visit two or three villages per day rather than trying to rush through all five. Start early before the day-trip crowds arrive.
8. Portovenere — The Jewel of the Gulf
Just 10km south of La Spezia, Portovenere is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Take the bus (25 minutes) or the ferry for a scenic approach across the harbour. The colourful houses lining the harbour were originally built as fortifications against Saracen raids. Walk through the narrow caruggi (alleyways) to the Gothic church of San Pietro, dramatically perched on the rocky headland with views of the open sea, the island of Palmaria, and the Cinque Terre coast stretching north. Below the church, Byron's Grotto — the cave where Lord Byron reportedly swam across the gulf to visit Shelley in Lerici — adds literary romance. Portovenere is a UNESCO World Heritage Site alongside Cinque Terre and the surrounding islands.
9. Lerici and the Shelley Coast
On the opposite side of the gulf, 8km southeast of La Spezia, Lerici is the village where Percy Bysshe Shelley spent the last year of his life before his tragic drowning in 1822. The medieval Castello di Lerici overlooks a sandy beach and a picturesque harbour lined with pastel-coloured houses. Lerici has a more relaxed, less touristy atmosphere than Portovenere, with excellent seafood restaurants along the waterfront and hidden swimming coves accessible by foot along the coastal path towards Tellaro — a tiny fishing village often called one of Italy's most beautiful borghi. Take the bus from La Spezia (20 minutes) or, in summer, the ferry.
10. Sarzana and the Lunigiana
Just 12km east of La Spezia (10 minutes by train), Sarzana is a historic town with a well-preserved medieval centre, an imposing citadel (Fortezza Firmafede), and one of Liguria's best antique markets — held on the first and third Sunday of each month. The surrounding Lunigiana region, straddling the border of Liguria and Tuscany, is a landscape of castles, chestnut forests, and hilltop villages. Sarzana makes an excellent half-day trip for anyone interested in history, food (the local restaurants are superb), or simply escaping the coastal crowds.
Outdoor Activities
11. Hike the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail)
The famous coastal trail connecting all five Cinque Terre villages is one of the world's great walks. The full route from Riomaggiore to Monterosso covers approximately 12km and takes around 5 hours, passing through vineyards, olive groves, and Mediterranean scrubland with dramatic clifftop views at every turn. The trail is divided into four sections of varying difficulty — the section from Vernazza to Monterosso is the most challenging but also the most scenic. A Cinque Terre Card (available at La Spezia station) includes trail access and unlimited train travel, so you can hike one section and take the train for the rest.
12. Kayaking the Gulf of Poets
For a different perspective on the coastline, rent a kayak from one of several operators along the La Spezia waterfront or in Lerici. Paddle along the dramatic cliffs of the Portovenere peninsula, explore sea caves, and reach hidden beaches inaccessible by land. The waters of the gulf are generally calm and sheltered, making it suitable for beginners. More experienced kayakers can venture around the island of Palmaria or along the Cinque Terre coast. Several operators offer guided sunset tours — paddling across the golden gulf as the sun drops behind Portovenere is a magical experience.
13. Diving and Snorkelling
The waters around Portovenere, Palmaria island, and the Cinque Terre coast are remarkably clear and rich in marine life. Several diving centres in La Spezia and Portovenere offer guided dives and PADI courses. The underwater landscapes include rocky reefs, gorgonian corals, posidonia seagrass meadows, and occasionally even dolphins. For snorkellers, the coves around Palmaria island and the area near the church of San Pietro in Portovenere are particularly rewarding — take the ferry and bring your mask.
Culture and Events
14. Palio del Golfo (August)
La Spezia's most spectacular annual event, held on the first Sunday of August. Thirteen rowing boats representing the borgate (neighbourhoods and villages) around the gulf compete in a passionate race across the harbour. The event dates back to 1925 and is taken extremely seriously by locals — each borgata has its own colours, songs, and supporters. The evening before the race, a torchlight procession and fireworks create a carnival atmosphere. Even if you are not normally interested in rowing, the Palio is an unforgettable spectacle of community, competition, and Italian passion.
15. Piazza Europa and the Modern City
La Spezia's modern civic centre, Piazza Europa is a large square surrounded by mid-20th-century buildings, fountains, and gardens. While not historically significant, it gives a sense of the city's post-war reconstruction and serves as a gathering place for locals. Nearby, the Cattedrale di Cristo Re — completed in 1975 with a distinctive circular modernist design — is worth a visit for its bold architecture, a dramatic contrast to the medieval churches of the surrounding villages.
16. Porto Mirabello After Dark
La Spezia's modern marina comes alive in the evenings, especially in summer. Waterfront restaurants serve fresh seafood with harbour views, cocktail bars offer aperitivo with a soundtrack of clinking glasses and live music, and the promenade fills with locals enjoying the warm Mediterranean night. It is a more contemporary, cosmopolitan side of La Spezia — far from the medieval village experience of Cinque Terre but equally enjoyable.
Sample Itineraries
3 Days in La Spezia
Day 1 — La Spezia City: Morning visit to the Mercato Coperto, then climb to Castello di San Giorgio. Lunch in a trattoria near Via del Prione (order the muscoli ripieni). Afternoon at the Museo Lia or Museo Tecnico Navale. Evening passeggiata along the waterfront and dinner at Porto Mirabello.
Day 2 — Cinque Terre: Early train to Monterosso al Mare. Walk the Sentiero Azzurro trail to Vernazza (2 hours, moderate). Lunch in Vernazza. Afternoon exploring Manarola and Riomaggiore. Train back to La Spezia for dinner.
Day 3 — Gulf of Poets: Ferry to Portovenere. Explore the colourful harbour, climb to San Pietro church, visit Byron's Grotto. Lunch with a view. Afternoon bus or ferry to Lerici — walk along the coastal path towards Tellaro. Return to La Spezia for a farewell seafood dinner.
5 Days in La Spezia
Days 1–3: As above.
Day 4 — Sarzana and Lunigiana: Train to Sarzana (10 minutes). Explore the medieval centre, visit the Fortezza Firmafede, browse the antique market if it is market day. Lunch at a local osteria. Afternoon drive or bus into the Lunigiana hills — visit a castle or hike through chestnut forests.
Day 5 — Water day: Kayak tour of the Gulf of Poets in the morning, snorkelling around Palmaria island in the afternoon. Alternatively, take the ferry along the entire Cinque Terre coast from La Spezia to Monterosso and back, seeing the villages from the sea.
Practical Tips
- Cinque Terre Card: Buy it at La Spezia Centrale station. Includes unlimited trains to the five villages plus trail access. Available as 1-day or 2-day passes.
- Ferry timetable: Check Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti for seasonal ferry schedules. Services typically run April–October. Boats depart from La Spezia's waterfront, near the Passeggiata Morin.
- Best time for Cinque Terre: Arrive before 09:30 to beat the day-trip crowds. Alternatively, visit in the late afternoon when most tourists have left.
- Comfortable shoes: Essential. La Spezia's old town has cobbled streets and steep lanes. The Cinque Terre trails require proper walking shoes or hiking boots.
- Parking: If driving, park on the outskirts and use public transport. The city centre has ZTL (restricted traffic zones) and limited parking.
- Water and sun protection: Carry water on hiking days, especially in summer. Sunscreen and a hat are essential on the exposed Cinque Terre trails.
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