La Spezia is one of Liguria's great food cities — a place where the mountains meet the sea and the cuisine reflects both. Positioned at the head of a spectacular natural gulf rich in seafood, with terraced hills producing olive oil, wine, and herbs behind it, La Spezia offers a culinary experience that is authentically Ligurian yet distinctly its own. Unlike the tourist-heavy restaurants of Cinque Terre, La Spezia's food scene caters primarily to locals, which means better quality, larger portions, and significantly lower prices.
Signature Dishes of La Spezia
Muscoli Ripieni (Stuffed Mussels)
The undisputed king of La Spezia's kitchen. Muscoli (the local word for mussels — never say "cozze" here) are harvested from the gulf and stuffed with a mixture of breadcrumbs, Parmigiano, garlic, parsley, eggs, and mortadella, then baked until golden. Every family has their own recipe, and every trattoria claims theirs is the best. The mussels from the Gulf of La Spezia have a distinctive sweetness from the mix of freshwater streams and Mediterranean salt water. You will find muscoli ripieni on virtually every menu in the city — order them as an antipasto and judge for yourself.
Farinata
A thin, crispy chickpea flatbread baked in a wood-fired oven in large copper pans. Farinata is a Ligurian institution, and La Spezia has some of the best in the region. The batter is simple — chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt — but getting the texture right (crispy edges, slightly soft centre) takes years of practice. Best eaten hot from the oven, often folded inside a piece of focaccia. Some places add toppings like rosemary, artichokes, or gorgonzola, but purists insist on nothing but a grinding of black pepper.
Mesciüa
La Spezia's most distinctive dish and a symbol of the city's working-class port heritage. Mesciüa (pronounced "mesh-OO-ah") is a thick soup of chickpeas, cannellini beans, farro, and wheat berries, slow-cooked and served with a generous pour of extra-virgin olive oil and a crack of black pepper. The name comes from the local dialect for "mixture" — legend has it that port workers' wives would gather spilled grains from the docks and cook them together. Today it is a beloved winter comfort food, though many restaurants serve it year-round. Simple, hearty, and deeply satisfying.
Acciughe (Fresh Anchovies)
The anchovies caught in the Gulf of La Spezia and along the Cinque Terre coast are considered among the finest in the Mediterranean. Forget the salty tinned versions — fresh Ligurian anchovies are a revelation. They are served marinated raw in lemon juice (acciughe marinate), fried in a light batter (acciughe fritte), or baked with potatoes and olives. In La Spezia, you will find them on almost every seafood restaurant menu, especially from spring through autumn when the catch is at its peak.
Pesto alla Genovese
While Genoa claims ownership of pesto, La Spezia makes it superbly. The basil grown in the hills above the gulf is smaller-leafed and more aromatic than most. Traditional pesto alla genovese uses basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino Fiore Sardo, and Ligurian extra-virgin olive oil, pounded in a marble mortar. In La Spezia, you will most commonly find it on trofie (short twisted pasta) or with testaroli — ancient flat pasta discs that are boiled and served with pesto, a speciality of the Lunigiana valley just behind the city.
Testaroli al Pesto
Testaroli are one of the oldest forms of pasta in Italy, originating in the Lunigiana region that borders La Spezia province. Made from a simple batter of flour and water cooked on heated terracotta or cast-iron plates (testi), the resulting thin pancakes are cut into diamond shapes, briefly boiled, and dressed with pesto. The texture is unique — slightly chewy, almost crepe-like — and the combination with fresh basil pesto is one of the great Ligurian food experiences. Nearly every traditional restaurant in La Spezia serves them.
Where to Eat in La Spezia
The Old Town (Via del Prione Area)
The streets around Via del Prione and the lanes leading down towards the old harbour are the heart of La Spezia's dining scene. Here you will find traditional trattorias serving multi-course seafood lunches, small friggitorie (fried food shops) selling paper cones of fritto misto, and wine bars offering local Cinque Terre DOC whites alongside plates of anchovies and focaccia. The key is to look for places where locals are eating — a queue at lunchtime is a good sign. Avoid restaurants with tourist menus in multiple languages displayed outside.
Mercato Coperto (Covered Market)
La Spezia's covered market on Piazza Cavour is one of the finest in Liguria. Open every morning except Sunday, it is a sensory feast of fresh fish straight from the boats, local cheeses, cured meats, seasonal vegetables, olives, dried herbs, and stalls selling prepared foods. The fish section is particularly impressive — you will see the day's catch from the gulf laid out on ice, with fishmongers happy to advise on what is best. Around the edges of the market, small bars and food stalls serve breakfast focaccia, fresh-squeezed juices, and simple lunches at very local prices.
Porto Mirabello
The modern marina district offers a different dining experience — contemporary restaurants and cocktail bars overlooking the superyachts. Prices are slightly higher than the old town, but the setting is spectacular, especially at sunset. Several restaurants here specialise in modern interpretations of Ligurian seafood, with tasting menus and wine pairings featuring local producers.
Portovenere and Lerici
For a special meal, take the bus or ferry to Portovenere (10km south) or Lerici (8km southeast). Both villages have excellent waterfront restaurants where you can eat fresh seafood with your feet practically in the water. Portovenere is more expensive but the setting — colourful houses reflected in the harbour, the island of Palmaria across the strait — is unforgettable. Lerici has a more relaxed, local atmosphere with some excellent family-run trattorias along the seafront.
Local Wines
Cinque Terre DOC
The white wine produced from Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes grown on the impossibly steep terraced vineyards above the five villages. A crisp, mineral, slightly saline wine that pairs perfectly with the local seafood. Every restaurant in La Spezia will stock it, and it is a crime not to try it while you are here. The vineyards are maintained by hand — no machines can work on slopes of 45 degrees — making this one of Italy's most labour-intensive wines.
Sciacchetrà
One of Italy's rarest and most precious dessert wines, produced in tiny quantities from the same Cinque Terre vineyards. The grapes are dried on racks for months before pressing, concentrating the sugars into a golden, honeyed wine with notes of apricot, dried flowers, and Mediterranean herbs. A small glass at the end of a meal is a memorable experience — and expect to pay accordingly, as annual production is only a few thousand bottles.
Colli di Luni DOC
Produced in the hills between La Spezia and Sarzana, the Colli di Luni appellation makes both excellent white Vermentino and robust reds from Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes. The Vermentino is aromatic and full-bodied, often regarded as among the best in Liguria. The reds are lighter than Tuscan wines but food-friendly and increasingly well-regarded. Look for bottles from local producers in the wine shops along Via del Prione.
Street Food and Quick Bites
- Focaccia di Recco: Paper-thin layers of dough filled with stracchino cheese, baked until blistered and bubbling. Technically from Recco near Genoa, but La Spezia's versions are excellent.
- Fritto misto di mare: A paper cone of lightly battered and fried calamari, prawns, small fish, and vegetables. Eaten walking along the harbour promenade.
- Sgabei: Deep-fried bread dough strips, served plain with cured meats and cheese or sprinkled with salt. Addictively light and crispy.
- Panigacci: Thin bread discs cooked in terracotta moulds, served with pesto, cured meats, or stracchino cheese. A Lunigiana speciality found in many La Spezia restaurants.
- Torta di riso: A savoury rice cake with eggs, cheese, and herbs, baked until golden. A common bar snack throughout eastern Liguria.
Food Markets and Shopping
Beyond the Mercato Coperto, La Spezia has a lively weekly outdoor market every Friday on Piazza Cavour and surrounding streets, selling everything from fresh produce to clothing and household goods. For high-quality olive oil, look for Ligurian DOP extra-virgin — the local varieties (Razzola, Frantoio) produce an oil that is lighter and more delicate than Tuscan versions, perfect for drizzling on fish and farinata. Several shops on Via del Prione specialise in local food products and make excellent gift sources — jars of pesto, bottles of Sciacchetrà, dried herbs, and Ligurian olive oil.
Seasonal Eating Guide
- Spring (March–May): Fresh anchovies, artichokes, fava beans, wild herbs. The first pesto of the season as young basil appears.
- Summer (June–August): Peak seafood season — grilled octopus, swordfish, tuna. Fresh tomatoes, aubergines, courgettes. Gelato everywhere.
- Autumn (September–November): Grape and olive harvest. Mushrooms from the Lunigiana hills. Chestnuts. New wine. Mesciüa season begins.
- Winter (December–February): Hearty soups and stews. Mesciüa at its best. Salt cod (baccalà). Citrus fruits from the Ligurian coast. Christmas sweets including pandolce Genovese.
Practical Tips
- Lunch hours: Most restaurants serve 12:00–14:30. Arrive before 13:00 for the best selection.
- Dinner hours: 19:30–22:00. Booking is recommended for popular places on weekends.
- Cover charge: Most restaurants charge a coperto of €1.50–3.00 per person. This is standard in Italy.
- Tipping: Not expected but appreciated. Round up the bill or leave 5–10% for good service.
- Market days: Mercato Coperto is open Monday–Saturday mornings. The big outdoor market is Fridays.
- Water: Tap water in La Spezia is safe and good quality. Ask for "acqua del rubinetto" to save money and plastic.
Stay and Eat — Book with IMPT
The best way to experience La Spezia's food scene is to stay in the city centre, where you can walk to the market in the morning, lunch at a trattoria, take an afternoon gelato on the passeggiata, and dine on fresh seafood overlooking the harbour in the evening. Book your eco-friendly hotel through IMPT — same price as Booking.com, 1 tonne of CO2 removed per booking, €5 di credito gratuito per i nuovi membri, and 5% cashback in IMPT tokens.
