Viterbo is one of central Italy's most underrated destinations — a city that packs papal history, one of Europe's best-preserved medieval quarters, natural thermal springs, Etruscan necropolises, Renaissance gardens, and a volcanic lake into a compact area. Here are the 12 essential things to do, covering the city and its surrounding province.
1. Palazzo dei Papi (Papal Palace)
The papal residence from 1257 to 1281. The Loggia of the Popes — seven Gothic arches framing the piazza — is Viterbo's defining image. Five popes were elected here, including Gregory X after the first-ever conclave (the cardinals were locked in and the roof removed to hurry them up). The adjacent Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the Romanesque cloister complete the complex.
2. San Pellegrino Medieval Quarter
Italy's best-preserved 13th-century neighbourhood. Narrow lanes, external staircases, arched bridges (profferli), and Romanesque churches create an almost intact medieval streetscape. Unlike many 'medieval quarters' in Italy, this one isn't a tourist theme park — people still live here. The annual Santa Rosa procession passes through on 3 September.
3. Terme dei Papi (Thermal Spa)
A monumental outdoor pool fed by a natural spring at 58°C. The mineral-rich water (sulphur, calcium, bicarbonate) has drawn visitors since Etruscan times. Natural cave pools offer a steam-bath experience. Open year-round; the pool stays open until midnight on summer weekends. The Bullicame spring — a free natural pool mentioned by Dante — is nearby.
4. Villa Lante, Bagnaia
A Renaissance garden masterpiece. Water cascades down the central axis through a chain of fountains: the Fountain of the Deluge, the Chain Fountain, the Cardinal's Table (a marble table with a water channel for cooling wine), and the Water Parterre. Far fewer crowds than Tivoli's Villa d'Este but arguably more perfect in design.
5. Museo Nazionale Etrusco (Rocca Albornoz)
Housed in the 16th-century Rocca Albornoz fortress overlooking the city. The collection includes Etruscan sarcophagi, votive bronzes, Greek pottery, and the Bagno della Regina — a full-scale Etruscan tomb reconstruction. The terrace has sweeping views across Viterbo to the Cimini Mountains.
6. Lake Bolsena
Europe's largest volcanic lake, 114 km² of crystal-clear water. The medieval town of Bolsena offers swimming beaches, boat rentals, and lakeside fish restaurants. Ferry to Isola Bisentina (Tues/Thurs/Sat in summer) for Etruscan tombs and Renaissance gardens. Montefiascone, 15 km from Viterbo, has a panoramic terrace with the best lake views.
7. Parco dei Mostri (Monster Park), Bomarzo
A 16th-century 'Sacred Wood' filled with bizarre stone monsters — a giant tearing a man apart, an elephant carrying a tower, a leaning house, an ogre's face with a dining table inside its mouth. Commissioned by Prince Pier Francesco Orsini as a garden of wonder and horror. Unlike anything else in Italy.
8. Necropolis of Tarquinia
A UNESCO World Heritage site with the finest Etruscan painted tombs in existence. The Tomb of the Leopards (480 BC) shows banqueting couples in vivid colours. The adjacent National Museum houses the Winged Horses terracotta and other treasures. Combine with a visit to Tarquinia's medieval centre.
9. Faggeta del Monte Cimino
A UNESCO-listed ancient beech forest at 1,053 metres. The trail climbs through centuries-old trees to the summit with panoramic views across to Monte Amiata and the sea. Particularly stunning in autumn when the leaves turn gold. The village of Soriano nel Cimino below has a fine 13th-century castle.
10. Santa Maria della Verità
A 12th-century Romanesque church concealing one of central Italy's great art treasures: Lorenzo da Viterbo's 1469 fresco cycle of the Life of the Virgin in the Mazzatosta Chapel. Also contains a Sebastiano del Piombo Pietà. The Renaissance cloister has a serene, rarely-visited atmosphere.
11. Civita di Bagnoregio
The 'dying city' — a medieval village perched on eroding volcanic tufa, accessible only by a 300-metre pedestrian bridge. Fewer than 10 permanent residents remain. The approach across the bridge is unforgettable. Visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid tour bus crowds. Often combined with a Lake Bolsena lunch.
12. Macchina di Santa Rosa (3 September)
UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage event. Every 3 September, 100 facchini (porters) carry a 5-tonne, 30-metre illuminated tower through Viterbo's darkened streets, stopping at five points along the 1.2 km route. The tower is rebuilt to a new design every five years. Book hotels 6+ months ahead — the city fills completely.
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