Home › Italy › Tuscany › Lucca › Food Guide
Updated for 2026 · By the ecohotels-impt.com editorial team
Lucca has one of the most distinctive food cultures in Tuscany — a cuisine shaped by the city's centuries of independence as a republic, its proximity to the Garfagnana mountains and the Versilian coast, and some of the finest olive oil production in all of Italy. While Florence gets the spotlight for bistecca alla fiorentina and Siena for its panforte, Lucchese cuisine has its own proud identity: hearty, ingredient-driven, and deeply connected to the surrounding landscape. From the meat-filled tordelli that define a Lucchese Sunday lunch to the humble cecina sold at bakery windows for a euro, eating in Lucca is one of the great pleasures of travelling in Tuscany.
What makes Lucca's food scene particularly rewarding is that it remains genuinely local. The old town's restaurants and trattorias still cook primarily for Lucchesi — families, office workers, and market traders — rather than for tourists. This means honest prices, proper portions, and cooking that hasn't been adjusted to suit international palates. You'll eat better and spend less than in Florence.
The undisputed king of Lucchese cuisine. Tordelli (sometimes spelled tortelli) are large half-moon shaped pasta parcels stuffed with a rich filling of mixed beef and pork, bread soaked in meat broth, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and nutmeg. They're typically dressed with a slow-cooked ragù made from the same meats. Every family, every trattoria, and every nonna in Lucca has their own recipe, and debates about the correct filling are conducted with the seriousness of a parliamentary session. The pasta is traditionally made with egg dough and pinched along the curved edge with a distinctive zigzag pattern. Tordelli are Sunday lunch in Lucca — the dish that brings families together around the table. Order them at any serious trattoria and you'll immediately understand why Lucchesi are so proud of this dish.
Lucca's signature sweet bread — a ring-shaped loaf enriched with anise seeds, raisins, and sometimes candied fruit. The name likely derives from the Latin buccella (morsel or mouthful). Buccellato has been baked in Lucca since at least the 15th century, and there's a local saying: "Chi viene a Lucca e non mangia il buccellato, è come non ci fosse mai stato" — whoever comes to Lucca and doesn't eat the buccellato might as well not have come at all. The most traditional buccellato comes from the historic Pasticceria Taddeucci on Piazza San Michele, which has been making it since 1881. The bread is slightly sweet, not heavily so, and works beautifully with morning espresso or as an afternoon snack. You can buy a full ring or have a slice cut to order.
A thin, crispy flatbread made from chickpea flour, olive oil, water, and salt — baked in a wood-fired oven until golden and slightly charred on top while remaining soft and creamy inside. Known as farinata in Genoa and socca in Nice, Lucca's version is called cecina and is sold by the slice at bakeries (forni) and pizzerias across the city. It's street food at its finest — cheap, satisfying, and naturally gluten-free. The best cecina is cooked in a large copper pan (testo) in a wood oven, producing an intense, almost smoky flavour. Many Lucchesi eat it tucked inside a piece of focaccia — carbs on carbs, and absolutely delicious. Look for it at any forno that has a queue at lunchtime.
Farro (emmer or spelt) from the Garfagnana valley north of Lucca holds an IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) designation — the first grain in Italy to receive this recognition. This ancient grain has been cultivated in the mountain valleys since Roman times, and the cool climate and mineral-rich soil produce a particularly nutty, flavourful crop. Zuppa di farro is a thick, warming soup made with farro, borlotti beans, vegetables (carrots, celery, onion, tomato), pancetta, and finished with a generous swirl of Lucchese olive oil. It's the quintessential winter comfort dish in Lucca but appears on menus year-round. The texture falls somewhere between soup and stew — the farro grains retain a pleasant chewiness while the beans and vegetables break down into a rich, velvety base.
Lucca sits at the heart of one of Italy's most prestigious olive oil-producing areas. The hills surrounding the city — particularly those in the comuni of Lucca, Capannori, and along the Compitese — are covered with ancient olive groves growing varieties like Frantoio, Leccino, and the distinctive local cultivar Quercetano. Lucchese olive oil carries a DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) certification and is characterised by a delicate, fruity flavour with a gentle peppery finish — less aggressive than oils from southern Tuscany or Puglia, but with remarkable depth and complexity. The harvest (raccolta) runs from late October through November, and visiting a frantoio during this period to taste freshly pressed olio nuovo is one of Tuscany's great food experiences. In the city, you can taste and buy excellent local oil at shops like De Cervesia on Via Buia.
Thin slices of beef dredged in flour and braised slowly in tomato sauce — a humble, old-fashioned Lucchese dish that has largely disappeared from restaurant menus outside the city but remains a staple of home cooking. The long, slow braising turns even inexpensive cuts of beef meltingly tender. Served with the reduced tomato braising liquid and often accompanied by white beans or bread to soak up the sauce. When you see rovelline on a menu, it's a sign that the kitchen is cooking genuinely Lucchese food.
Salt cod stewed with leeks — a dish that reflects Lucca's historical trade connections despite being an inland city. Dried cod was imported via the port of Viareggio and became a staple of Lucchese cooking, particularly during Lent and fasting periods (of which there were many, given the city's 100+ churches). The cod is soaked for days to remove the salt, then braised gently with sliced leeks, tomato, olive oil, and sometimes a pinch of chilli. The result is surprisingly delicate — the leeks nearly dissolve into the sauce while the fish retains a firm, flaky texture.
A flat, dense cake made from chestnut flour — another gift from the Garfagnana, where chestnut forests have been the economic backbone of mountain communities for centuries. The batter is simple: chestnut flour, water, olive oil, a pinch of salt, and typically rosemary, pine nuts, and raisins. The result is an earthy, slightly sweet cake with a chewy texture that is an acquired taste for some but deeply satisfying once appreciated. Castagnaccio is an autumn and winter speciality, appearing in bakeries from October through December when the new-season chestnut flour arrives. It pairs surprisingly well with a glass of vin santo.
Lucca's dining scene rewards those who venture beyond the piazza-front tourist spots. The best trattorias are often tucked into side streets, unmarked but for a simple sign, cooking the same recipes their grandmothers taught them. Here are the restaurants that consistently deliver the authentic Lucchese experience.
The most celebrated restaurant in Lucca, operating continuously since 1782 — one of Italy's oldest restaurants. The dining room is hung with copper pots, old prints, and musical instruments (a nod to Puccini, who dined here). The menu is a masterclass in traditional Lucchese cooking: impeccable tordelli, rovelline, baccalà with leeks, and zuppa di farro. The rabbit with olives and the kid (capretto) in season are outstanding. Service is formal but warm, and the wine list has excellent depth in Tuscan wines. Reservations are essential, particularly on weekends. This is where Lucchesi celebrate special occasions — always a reliable indicator of quality.
The archetypal Lucchese trattoria — no-frills, no reservations, shared tables, handwritten daily specials on a board, and cooking that is startlingly good for the price. Da Leo has been feeding locals since the 1930s and the formula hasn't changed: generous portions of tordelli, zuppa di farro, ribollita, and daily-changing secondi like trippa alla lucchese or coniglio arrosto (roast rabbit). The house wine is basic but drinkable, and a full meal with wine rarely exceeds €20 per person. Expect to queue, especially at lunch — there are no reservations, and the locals know exactly what they're doing when they arrive at 12:30 sharp.
A refined but relaxed restaurant set in a former garden (orto) within the walls, with outdoor seating among herbs and vegetables that supply the kitchen. The cooking takes Lucchese classics and elevates them with modern technique and beautiful presentation without losing their soul. The farro risotto-style, the tortelli with ragù bianco, and the seasonal vegetable tasting plates are highlights. The wine list focuses on small Tuscan producers. A lovely choice for a slightly more polished dinner without the formality of Buca di Sant'Antonio.
Tucked into a quiet street near the eastern walls, Osteria San Giorgio serves thoughtful, ingredient-led cooking rooted in Lucchese tradition. The kitchen works closely with local farmers and foragers — wild herbs, seasonal vegetables, and Garfagnana products feature prominently. The zuppa di farro here is exceptional, made with biodynamic spelt from a single farm. The meat dishes — particularly the slow-cooked pork cheek and the lamb from the Garfagnana — are superb. The atmosphere is intimate, with exposed brick walls and a small but carefully chosen wine list.
Not a restaurant in the traditional sense, but an institution. Da Felice is where Lucchesi go for the city's best cecina and castagnaccio — baked in a wood-fired oven and sold by the slice through a window in the wall. The queue at lunchtime is a spectacle in itself. Order a slice of cecina and a slice of focaccia, combine them (as the locals do), and eat it walking through the streets. Total cost: about €3. Total satisfaction: immeasurable. They also make excellent schiacciata (Tuscan flatbread) with various toppings.
A warm, welcoming osteria near Piazza San Michele specialising in traditional Lucchese meat dishes. The tagliata di manzo (sliced steak) with rosemary and the coniglio in porchetta (rabbit stuffed porchetta-style) are standouts. The pasta is made in-house daily, and the tordelli are among the best in the city — the filling rich with slow-braised meat, the ragù dark and intensely flavoured. The dining room has the feel of a private home, with terracotta floors and mismatched wooden chairs.
For self-catering or simply experiencing the ingredients that fuel Lucchese cooking, the city's markets and food shops are essential stops.
Lucca's daily covered market, held in the area around Piazza del Carmine and Via dei Bacchettoni. Local farmers sell seasonal vegetables, fruit, cheeses (including fresh pecorino from the Garfagnana), and cured meats. Saturday morning is the busiest and best time to visit — the market expands with additional stalls selling bread, flowers, and clothing.
On the third weekend of each month, Lucca's streets and piazzas host one of Tuscany's largest antique and vintage markets. While not strictly a food market, several stalls sell vintage kitchen equipment, traditional ceramics, and artisanal food products — aged balsamic vinegar, local honey, chestnut flour from the Garfagnana, and handmade pasta.
Via Fillungo and the surrounding streets are home to several excellent food shops. Antica Bottega di Prospero on Via Santa Lucia specialises in Lucchese and Garfagnana products — farro, chestnut flour, dried porcini, local olive oils, and wines. For cheese, seek out a good salumeria where you can taste aged pecorino from the Garfagnana alongside Lucchese prosciutto crudo. For the famous buccellato, head directly to Taddeucci on Piazza San Michele.
While Lucca doesn't sit in a marquee wine region like Chianti or Montalcino, the surrounding Lucchese hills (Colline Lucchesi DOC) produce characterful red wines from Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, and Merlot, and crisp whites from Vermentino and Trebbiano. These are honest, food-friendly wines that rarely appear outside Tuscany — all the more reason to drink them on their home turf. The DOC area stretches through the olive-terraced hills east of the city toward Capannori and Montecarlo.
In particular, look for wines from Montecarlo di Lucca (not to be confused with Monaco) — a small hilltop town about 15 km east of the city that produces some surprisingly refined reds and a distinctive white made from a blend of Trebbiano, Semillon, Pinot Grigio, and Roussanne. Several cantinas in Montecarlo welcome visitors for tastings, making it an easy half-day trip from Lucca.
In the city itself, wine bars like Vinarkia on Via Fillungo and Enoteca Vanni on Piazza del Salvatore offer broad Tuscan wine lists with knowledgeable staff who can guide you toward the best local bottles. A glass of Colline Lucchesi Sangiovese with a plate of local salumi is a perfect aperitivo on a Lucca evening.
Lunch is the main meal. Many Lucchese restaurants serve their most substantial menu at lunch (pranzo, typically 12:30–14:30), with lighter options at dinner. Trattorias like Da Leo are busiest — and best — at midday.
Avoid piazza-front restaurants in Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. They're fine for a coffee, but the food tends to be tourist-oriented and overpriced. Walk two minutes in any direction and you'll eat better for less.
Look for "menu del giorno." Many trattorias offer a fixed daily menu — primo, secondo, contorno, and sometimes dessert — for €12–18. These are invariably excellent value and feature whatever is freshest that morning.
Olive oil is everything. Lucchese cuisine is built on olive oil, not butter. Always ask for local oil (olio locale or olio nostrale) when it's available — the difference from generic oil is dramatic.
Tip culture: A coperto (cover charge) of €1.50–3 is standard and covers bread and table setting. Additional tipping is appreciated but not expected — round up the bill or leave 5–10% for exceptional service.
Whatever brings you to Lucca — the walls, the towers, or the tordelli — booking your stay through IMPT means you pay the same price as Booking.com, receive EUR5 free credit on your first booking, and earn 5% cashback in IMPT tokens. Every booking removes 1 tonne of CO₂, contributing to IMPT's network of 25K+ green-certified partners worldwide.