Messina Food Guide
Swordfish, granita, pidone, and one of Italy's smallest wine appellations — everything you need to eat and drink in Sicily's strait-side city.
Messina's cuisine is shaped by the same geography that defines the city itself: the narrow strait teeming with swordfish and other deep-water species, the Peloritani Mountains producing wild herbs and foraged greens, and centuries of cultural exchange between Sicily, mainland Italy, and the wider Mediterranean. The result is a kitchen distinct from Palermo's Arab-influenced cooking and Catania's Etna-sourced flavours. Messina's food is about the sea — specifically, about the magnificent pesce spada (swordfish) that has been hunted in the strait since ancient times — but it is also about street food, icy granita on a hot morning, and a wine tradition so localised that most Italians have never heard of it.
This guide covers the essential dishes, drinks, and restaurants you need to experience during a stay in Messina.
The Swordfish Tradition
No food is more closely identified with Messina than swordfish. The Strait of Messina has been one of the Mediterranean's prime swordfishing grounds since Homeric times — some scholars believe the reference to Scylla and Charybdis in the Odyssey reflects the dangerous currents where swordfish hunters once worked. Traditional swordfishing in the strait used a distinctive vessel called the feluca or passerella — a long, narrow boat with a tall mast from which a spotter could see the fish cutting through the deep water, and a long bowsprit (passerella) from which the harpoonist struck. While modern fishing methods have largely replaced the traditional boats, a few feluche still operate from the coastal villages north of Messina, and the swordfish they catch remains the most prized (and expensive) available.
Swordfish season in the strait runs primarily from May through September, with the peak in June and July when the fish migrate through the narrow channel between the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas. During this season, every restaurant in Messina features swordfish in multiple preparations. Outside the season, you will still find pesce spada on menus — often frozen or sourced from other waters — but the experience is not the same as eating line-caught strait swordfish on a July evening at Ganzirri.
Essential Messinese Dishes
Braciole di Pesce Spada (Swordfish Rolls)
The signature dish of Messina. Thin slices of swordfish are pounded flat, filled with a mixture of breadcrumbs, capers, pine nuts, raisins, parsley, and sometimes a touch of pecorino cheese, then rolled up, skewered, and grilled over charcoal or baked. The combination of the meaty, almost steak-like swordfish with the sweet-savoury filling — a flavour profile that echoes Sicily's Arab culinary heritage — is extraordinary. Every family and every restaurant has their own variation of the filling. Some add olives, others a squeeze of lemon, others a handful of toasted almonds. The rolls are typically served with a simple salad of tomatoes, red onion, and oregano. Order them anywhere in Messina, but the waterfront restaurants at Ganzirri do them particularly well.
Pesce Spada alla Ghiotta
Messina's other great swordfish preparation — thick steaks braised in a sauce of tomatoes, capers, Gaeta olives, pine nuts, and celery. The word ghiotta (sometimes spelled ghiotta or alla messinese) roughly translates as "gluttonous" or "greedy," and the dish lives up to the name. The sauce is rich, tangy, and complex — a marriage of Mediterranean ingredients that transforms the sturdy swordfish into something deeply flavourful. It is typically served with bread for mopping the sauce rather than with pasta. Some versions add potatoes to the braise. This is a dish best eaten slowly with a glass of Faro DOC wine and a view of the strait.
Granita Messinese
Sicilian granita is one of the great frozen treats of the world, and each Sicilian city has its own style. Messina's version tends toward a slightly coarser, icier texture than the ultra-smooth granita of Catania or Acireale — though individual granita makers vary widely. The essential Messina experience is granita con brioche for breakfast: a bowl or glass of intensely flavoured granita served alongside a soft, dome-shaped brioche bun (often slightly sweetened, with a topknot called a tuppo). You tear the brioche and dip it into the granita. Classic Messinese flavours include almond (mandorla), coffee (caffè), mulberry (gelsi — deeply seasonal and stunning when available in June-July), lemon (limone), and pistachio. During summer, locals eat granita for breakfast almost daily, and many bars open early specifically to serve it. Look for places that make their granita in-house rather than using commercial mixes — the difference is enormous.
Pidone (Pitone Messinese)
Messina's iconic street food — a large, half-moon-shaped fried calzone stuffed with escarole (scarola), tomato, anchovies, and mozzarella or tuma cheese. The dough is soft and stretchy, encasing a filling that is savoury, salty, and slightly bitter from the greens. Pidoni are sold from street stalls and rosticcerie throughout the city, particularly around Piazza Cairoli and the market areas. They are made fresh and fried to order, emerging from the oil golden-brown and impossibly hot — let them cool for a few minutes before biting in. A variant called pitone bianco omits the tomato for a purer cheese-and-greens flavour. The pidone is as fundamental to Messina street eating as arancini are to the rest of Sicily.
Focaccia Messinese
Not to be confused with Ligurian focaccia — Messina's version is a completely different creation. It is a thick, soft, pizza-like bread topped with tomato sauce, escarole or curly endive, anchovies, tuma cheese (a fresh Sicilian cheese similar to mozzarella but firmer), and sometimes sliced tomatoes on top. The bread is baked until the edges are crisp while the centre remains pillowy. Like pidone, it features the same core flavour combination that defines Messinese snack food: salty anchovies, bitter greens, mild cheese. Focaccia messinese is typically sold by the slice (al taglio) from bakeries and street food shops. It is perfect for a quick, inexpensive lunch — grab a generous slice and eat it walking through the centre.
Arancini
Sicily's famous fried rice balls are found everywhere in Messina, though the local style has its own characteristics. In eastern Sicily (including Messina), arancini are typically pointed or cone-shaped (sometimes called arancine in the west, where they are round — a difference that sparks fierce Sicilian debate). The classic filling is ragù — a meat sauce with peas and sometimes a piece of mozzarella in the centre. Messinese arancini tend to be generously sized, with a crispy golden exterior and a centre that is almost molten when fresh. You will also find arancini al burro (with béchamel and ham), alla norma (with aubergine), and occasionally alla messinese (with swordfish ragù — a local twist that is worth seeking out). Buy them from any rosticceria or bar — they are everywhere, and even the average ones are good.
Pasta 'Ncasciata
A baked pasta dish that is a specialty of the Messina province, famously featured in Andrea Camilleri's Inspector Montalbano novels (though the fictional Montalbano is based in the province of Ragusa). The dish consists of short pasta — typically penne or rigatoni — baked with a rich ragù, hard-boiled eggs, fried aubergine slices, caciocavallo cheese, salami, and sometimes peas. It emerges from the oven as a substantial, golden-crusted affair — essentially a Sicilian lasagna made with tube pasta. It is a celebration dish, traditionally served at family gatherings and holidays, and not something you will find in every trattoria. When you do see it on a menu, order it — it is a genuine piece of Messinese home cooking.
Cassata Siciliana
While cassata is made across Sicily, Messina has its own proud tradition. The classic cassata is a dome or rectangular cake made with ricotta cream (sweetened sheep's milk ricotta blended with sugar, chocolate chips, and candied fruit), enclosed in sponge cake soaked in liqueur, and covered with a layer of marzipan and royal icing (glassa reale). The top is decorated with elaborate candied fruits — the most ornate versions are genuine works of edible art. In Messina's pasticcerie, you will find cassata ranging from individual portions to large ceremonial cakes. The best versions use fresh ricotta from the Peloritani mountain dairies, which has a tangier, more complex flavour than industrial ricotta. Cassata is traditionally an Easter dessert but is available year-round in Messina.
Faro DOC — Messina's Hidden Wine
One of the most remarkable stories in Italian wine hides in the hills directly north of Messina. The Faro DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) is one of Italy's smallest wine appellations — just a handful of producers cultivate vineyards on the steep, terraced slopes above the strait in the area between Messina and Capo Peloro. The appellation covers only parts of the commune of Messina itself, making it one of the very few Italian DOCs confined to a single municipality.
Faro wines are red blends based on Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio (the same grapes that produce the renowned wines of Mount Etna), blended with small percentages of Nocera — an ancient variety native to the Messina area that is virtually unknown elsewhere. The resulting wines are medium-bodied, elegant, and distinctly mineral, with flavours of red berries, wild herbs, and a saline note that locals attribute to the sea breezes. They bear comparison with the best Etna reds but have a character uniquely their own.
For decades, Faro was nearly extinct — reduced to a handful of elderly growers making wine for personal consumption. In recent years, a small revival led by producers like Palari (whose Faro Palari bottling has achieved international acclaim and typically sells for €40–€60 per bottle) and Bonavita has brought new attention to this tiny appellation. Tenuta Rasocolmo and Le Casematte are other producers worth seeking out. Total annual production across all Faro DOC producers is estimated at only 20,000 to 30,000 bottles — a rounding error compared to major Italian wine regions.
Finding Faro wine in Messina's restaurants requires some effort, as not every establishment carries it. Ask specifically — restaurateurs who stock it are usually proud and knowledgeable about their local wine. Pair it with swordfish alla ghiotta, braciole di pesce spada, or aged cheeses from the Peloritani mountains. If you are a wine enthusiast, a visit to one of the Faro vineyards can be arranged — the views from the terraced hillsides, overlooking both the strait and the city, are spectacular.
Other Drinks
Malvasia delle Lipari
While not technically a Messina wine, Malvasia delle Lipari — a golden, sweet passito wine from the nearby Aeolian Islands (particularly Salina) — is widely available in Messina's restaurants and enotecas. Made from sun-dried Malvasia grapes, it has intense flavours of apricot, honey, and dried figs. It is traditionally served as a dessert wine alongside cassata or almond pastries, and a small glass paired with cannoli is a quintessentially Sicilian way to end a meal.
Coffee Culture
Messina follows the Sicilian coffee tradition with some local touches. Expect strong, intense espresso — often served with a glass of cold water alongside. In summer, caffè freddo (cold coffee, pre-sweetened and served in a glass) and granita di caffè (coffee granita, the frozen version) replace hot coffee for many locals. Some Messina bars still serve caffè alla messinese — espresso poured over a spoonful of lemon zest or served with a tiny twist of lemon peel — though this tradition is fading.
Where to Eat in Messina
Osteria del Campanile
Located within sight of the Duomo's bell tower (campanile), this osteria is one of Messina's best addresses for traditional cuisine in a relaxed, unfussy setting. The menu changes with the seasons and the market, but swordfish features prominently during the strait fishing season. The braciole di pesce spada are expertly prepared — tightly rolled, perfectly grilled, and served with a simple salad. The pasta with sardines and wild fennel is another standout. The wine list gives appropriate prominence to Faro DOC and other Sicilian labels. The atmosphere is warm and neighbourhood-oriented — this is where locals bring out-of-town friends to show them what Messinese cooking really tastes like. Booking is advisable on weekend evenings.
Trattoria del Popolo
A genuine trattoria in the best sense — simple furnishings, handwritten specials on a board, generous portions, and prices that feel like they have not fully caught up with the modern era. Trattoria del Popolo serves straightforward Messinese home cooking: pasta 'ncasciata on the right day, pesce spada alla ghiotta when the fish is fresh, thick soups of legumes and wild greens in winter. The antipasti spread of marinated vegetables, local cheeses, and cured meats is a meal in itself. Service is friendly in that characteristically Sicilian way — unhurried, opinionated, and genuinely invested in whether you enjoy the food. This is the kind of place where the waiter might redirect you away from your first choice toward something better that day. Trust them.
Il Gattopardo
Named after Lampedusa's great Sicilian novel (The Leopard), Il Gattopardo occupies an elegant space near the waterfront and offers a more refined take on Messinese and Sicilian cuisine. This is where swordfish preparations reach their most polished expression — carpaccio of raw pesce spada sliced tissue-thin and dressed with citrus and capers, alongside the more traditional braciole and ghiotta. The tasting menus offer a structured journey through Messinese flavours, while the à la carte menu allows flexibility. The wine programme is serious, with vertical offerings from Faro DOC producers and a broad selection of Etna, Vittoria, and western Sicilian wines. The waterfront setting adds atmosphere, particularly at sunset when the strait light floods through the windows.
Ganzirri Lakeside Restaurants
The village of Ganzirri, about 10 kilometres northeast of central Messina at the edge of the twin brackish lakes, is Messina's de facto seafood dining district. A string of restaurants lines the shore of Lago Grande, many with outdoor terraces directly over the water. The speciality here is cozze di Ganzirri — mussels farmed in the lakes since ancient times, served steamed, in pasta sauces (spaghetti alle cozze), or gratinéed with breadcrumbs and herbs. The mussels are notably sweet and plump due to the mix of salt and fresh water in the lakes. Beyond mussels, Ganzirri restaurants serve all manner of fresh seafood — grilled whole fish, mixed fried fish (fritto misto), raw preparations, and swordfish in season. Prices are moderate, and the atmosphere on a summer evening — sitting at a lakeside table with fairy lights reflected in the water, eating mussels by the kilogram — is one of Messina's great pleasures. No single restaurant dominates; walk along the lake and choose based on the crowd and the day's catch displayed.
Street Food & Markets
Messina's street food scene centres on pidone and arancini, both available from rosticcerie and bars throughout the city. The area around Piazza Cairoli — Messina's main gathering point — has several good options. Look for places with visible queues and a rapid turnover of freshly fried goods. The Mercato Muricello, Messina's central produce market, is worth visiting in the morning for its displays of fresh fish (swordfish steaks cut to order in season), local cheeses, seasonal fruits, and preserved goods. The market gives a vivid sense of what Messinese home cooking draws upon: boxes of purple aubergines, bundles of wild greens, baskets of capers from the Aeolian Islands, and pyramids of blood oranges in winter.
For a sweet snack, seek out the city's pasticcerie for cannoli (filled to order — never pre-filled, which allows the shell to go soggy), cassatelle (small fried pastries filled with sweetened ricotta), and seasonal treats like buccellato (a ring-shaped Christmas cake stuffed with dried figs, almonds, and candied orange peel). Messina's pastry tradition is deep, influenced by the same convent baking culture that shaped sweets across Sicily — many recipes originated in the kitchens of convents and monasteries where nuns created elaborate confections for religious festivals.
Eating Sustainably in Messina
Eating in Messina naturally aligns with sustainable food principles. The strait swordfish fishery, while it uses modern methods, is relatively low-impact compared to industrial trawling. The Ganzirri mussel farms are a form of aquaculture that has existed for centuries without depleting the lakes. Much of the produce in Messina's markets travels short distances from the Peloritani foothills and the Ionian coast. The Faro DOC vineyards are by nature small-scale and largely organic in practice (if not always in certification). By eating locally and seasonally in Messina — swordfish in summer, citrus in winter, wild greens in spring — you are participating in a food system that is inherently more sustainable than most.
Through IMPT, you can extend this sustainable approach to your accommodation. With 8M+ hotels globally at the same price as Booking.com, every IMPT booking removes 1 tonne of CO₂ from the atmosphere. You also earn 5% cashback in IMPT tokens and receive EUR5 free credit on your first booking. With 25K+ green-certified partners, IMPT makes it easy to match your sustainable eating choices with equally responsible lodging.