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Macarons de Poitiers, Chabichou goat cheese, Haut-Poitou wines and the best places to eat
Published July 2026 • Updated July 2026 • 8 min read
Poitiers sits at the crossroads of several French culinary traditions. The rolling pastures of the Poitou region produce some of France's finest goat cheeses, the chalky soils of Haut-Poitou yield elegant white wines, and the city's convents and patisseries have preserved a confectionery tradition that predates the famous Paris macaron by centuries.
For the eco-conscious traveller, eating well in Poitiers is sustainable travel in action. Food miles are short, farmers' markets thrive and many restaurants source directly from Vienne department producers. This guide covers everything you need to know about eating and drinking in Poitiers, from its most iconic dishes to the best restaurants and seasonal eating tips.
The original macaron de Poitiers is a single-shell almond biscuit made from almonds, sugar and egg whites. It predates the Paris macaron by several centuries. Legend traces it to 16th-century nuns at the Couvent de Sainte-Croix. Unlike its Parisian cousin with a ganache filling, the Poitiers macaron is a single biscuit with a soft, chewy texture and a characteristic cracked top. It is less sweet and more subtle in flavour. Try them at Maison Boisseau on rue Gambetta or from the stalls at Les Halles market. A box of six costs EUR8-10.
Chabichou is a small cylindrical goat cheese with a distinctive greyish-blue mould rind and a dense, creamy texture. It has been produced in the Poitou region since at least the 8th century, when Saracen invaders supposedly introduced goat-herding techniques — the name may derive from "chebil," the Arabic word for goat. The AOC designation protects traditional production methods within the Vienne and Deux-Sevres departments. Young Chabichou (aged 10 days) is mild and creamy; aged versions (21+ days) develop a stronger, nuttier flavour. Pair with a glass of Haut-Poitou Sauvignon Blanc and a crusty baguette. Available at Les Halles market for EUR3-5 per cheese.
The Haut-Poitou wine region surrounds Poitiers, producing fresh, aromatic wines from calcareous clay soils. The star performer is Sauvignon Blanc — zesty and mineral-driven, often compared to Sancerre but much more affordable at EUR6-10 per bottle. Chardonnay, Gamay and Cabernet Franc also thrive here. Several wineries near Poitiers offer tastings by appointment, including Domaine Petra on the city's outskirts. The Cave des Vignerons du Haut-Poitou in Neuville-de-Poitou (15 minutes north of Poitiers) is a cooperative cellar representing over 80 growers — an excellent place for a comprehensive tasting. The annual Portes Ouvertes (Open Doors) weekend in May allows free cellar visits across the region.
A simple butter biscuit that originated as a celebration cake, traditionally broken (broye) by striking it with a hammer or fist at family gatherings. Made from flour, butter, sugar and eggs, it is baked until golden and fragile. Despite its simplicity, the broye du Poitou has a dedicated local following and is sold in patisseries across Poitiers. The best versions are buttery, crumbly and not too sweet. Try it from Patisserie Raynaud near Place Charles de Gaulle or the bakers' stalls at Les Halles market. It pairs beautifully with a cup of tea or a glass of Pineau des Charentes.
While Chabichou is the most famous Poitou cheese, Pouligny-Saint-Pierre is arguably the finest. A cone-shaped goat cheese (often called the "Eiffel Tower" for its distinctive pyramidal form), it has a drier, nuttier flavour than Chabichou and a beautiful blue-grey mould rind. Production is limited to the Indre department, bordering the Vienne. The cheese is aged for 10-21 days and pairs exceptionally well with Haut-Poitou wines. Available at specialist cheesemongers in Les Halles market for EUR5-7 per cheese.
Food markets are the heartbeat of Poitiers' culinary scene. They are also the most sustainable way to eat — direct from producer, minimal packaging and food miles measured in kilometres rather than countries.
The city's main food market is housed in a modern building at Place Charles de Gaulle. Open Tuesday to Sunday mornings (closed Monday), it buzzes from 7am to 1pm. The Saturday market is the largest, drawing farmers, cheese makers and wine producers from across the Vienne department. Must-visit stalls: the Chabichou from Fromagerie Pascal (look for the AOC label), fresh Haut-Poitou wines from the cooperative cellar, macarons de Poitiers from Maison Boisseau, and seasonal produce from the market gardeners of the Val de Clain. An organic (bio) section operates on Wednesday mornings, offering certified organic fruit, vegetables, eggs and bread.
On Saturdays the square outside Les Halles fills with additional stalls selling clothing, flowers, crafts and street food. This is when Poitiers feels most alive, with the aroma of roasting chickens, fresh bread and crêpes filling the air. Arrive before 10am for the best cheese selection — the most popular Chabichou and Pouligny-Saint-Pierre producers sell out by midday. The oyster stand is a highlight, shucking fresh Marennes-Oleron oysters from the nearby Charente coast at EUR12-15 for a half-dozen with a glass of white wine.
A smaller organic market operates on Wednesday mornings in the square near the Palais des Comtes. It features certified organic produce from local farms including seasonal vegetables, free-range eggs, artisan bread and raw-milk cheeses. Prices are slightly higher than Les Halles but the quality is exceptional. This is the best place to find heirloom vegetable varieties and seasonal specialities like cep mushrooms in autumn or asparagus in spring.
A traditional French bistro on rue Saint-Michel, specialising in regional classics with an emphasis on locally sourced meat and produce. The menu changes with the seasons and features dishes like confit de canard, magret de canard with Haut-Poitou wine sauce, and a carefully selected plate of Poitou cheeses for dessert. Beef comes from local Charolais farms in the Vienne. Main courses EUR16-22. Closed Sunday and Monday. Book ahead.
Modern regional cuisine near Notre-Dame la Grande. Chef Marie-Claire Dupont works exclusively with Vienne department producers, changing her menu daily based on what is in season and at its best. The goat cheese salad with Haut-Poitou Chardonnay jelly is a signature starter. The three-course lunch menu at EUR24 is excellent value — one of the best lunch deals in the city. Dinner EUR38-48 for full menu. Reserve for dinner.
Tucked into the UNESCO-listed Saint-Hilaire quarter, this charming restaurant occupies a 15th-century stone building. The menu highlights Poitou traditions with a modern touch: Chabichou souffle, roasted pigeon from the Vienne, and a remarkable tarte tatin. The wine list features over 40 Haut-Poitou references. Main courses EUR18-28. A perfect choice for a romantic dinner.
A friendly, no-fuss creperie on rue du Marche specialising in savoury galettes made from organic buckwheat flour. Fillings lean regional — goat cheese, ham from Bayonne, local mushrooms in autumn. Sweet crêpes with Poitou butter and sugar round off the meal. Galettes from EUR9. Perfect for a budget-friendly, low-carbon meal. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
Beyond Haut-Poitou wine, the region has several distinctive drinks worth seeking out:
Pineau des Charentes — A fortified wine made from fresh grape must and Cognac, produced in the neighbouring Charente region. Served chilled as an aperitif, it has a sweet, fruity character that pairs well with goat cheese. Found in bars across Poitiers at EUR5-8 per glass. The Cave des Vignerons du Haut-Poitou carries several excellent Pineau producers.
Chabichou + Sauvignon Blanc pairing — This is the classic Poitou combination. The fresh, citrusy acidity of Haut-Poitou Sauvignon Blanc cuts through the creamy richness of Chabichou perfectly. Serve both at cellar temperature (around 10-12°C). A baguette, a bottle of Domaine Petra Sauvignon Blanc (EUR8 at the cooperative cellar) and a Chabichou from Les Halles market makes a perfect picnic in Parc de Blossac.
Artisanal cider — The broader Nouvelle-Aquitaine region produces artisanal ciders, particularly from the Limousin area. Dry, sparkling and refreshing, it is a good low-alcohol alternative to wine. Available at Les Halles market and in bars around the old town.
Local herbal liqueurs — Several Poitou distillers produce artisanal liqueurs from local herbs and plants, including vervaine (verbena) and menthe poivree (peppermint). Digestif tradition, served after meals in local bistros.
The best restaurants in Poitiers let the seasons dictate their menus. Eating seasonally is not just more sustainable — it yields better flavour. Here is what to look for in each season:
Spring (March-May): New-season asparagus from the Loire Valley, early strawberries from the Vienne, fresh goat cheeses at their creamiest (young Chabichou aged only 10 days), radishes with butter and salt, wild garlic from riverside woods along the Clain.
Summer (June-August): Tomatoes from local gardens, peaches and melons, courgette flowers, grilled lamb from Poitou-Charentes farms, cold Haut-Poitou rose. The Saturday market at Les Halles is at its peak with the widest range of produce.
Autumn (September-November): Wild mushrooms (cepes, girolles, trompettes de la mort) from the forests of the Vienne, game dishes (pheasant, wild boar), mature Chabichou aged 21+ days for stronger flavour, the new vintage of Haut-Poitou wines released in November, walnuts and chestnuts from local orchards.
Winter (December-February): Root vegetables (parsnips, celeriac, carrots), hearty daubes (beef stews cooked in Haut-Poitou wine), Poitou butter in everything, broye du Poitou with hot chocolate, oysters from the Atlantic coast for Christmas, truffled dishes from the Perigord region nearby.
Eating sustainably in Poitiers is straightforward — the local food culture naturally supports it. Here are practical tips for the eco-conscious diner:
Shop at Les Halles market and buy directly from producers. This eliminates packaging and reduces food miles to often less than 30km. The Wednesday organic market near the Palais des Comtes offers certified bio produce from local farms. When dining out, order the "menu du marche" (market menu) — it uses seasonal ingredients and is usually the best-value option on the menu.
Bring a reusable bag for market shopping. Most cheese and produce vendors are happy to wrap items in paper rather than plastic if you ask. Avoid restaurants serving out-of-season produce — if it is January and the menu features tomato salad, the food miles are high and the flavour will disappoint. Drink Haut-Poitou wines rather than imported bottles. And always finish your cheese course — French cheese is a waste-reducing approach to dairy that honours the producer's work.
When booking accommodation, choose an IMPT-affiliated hotel where every night removes 1 tonne of CO₂ from the atmosphere. With over 8 million hotel listings and 25,000+ green-certified partners, IMPT makes sustainable travel effortless.
Poitiers is known for several distinctive local foods. The macaron de Poitiers is a single-shell almond biscuit that predates the Paris macaron by centuries. Chabichou du Poitou is an AOC-protected soft goat cheese with a characteristic cylindrical shape and blue-grey rind. Haut-Poitou wines are crisp, aromatic whites (especially Sauvignon Blanc) and fruity reds (Gamay). The region also produces broye du Poitou (a simple butter biscuit traditionally broken at celebrations), plus several other goat cheeses including Pouligny-Saint-Pierre and Mothe-Saint-Heray, both AOC-protected. The covered market Les Halles is the best place to sample everything in one morning.
The macaron de Poitiers is a traditional single-shell almond biscuit made from almonds, sugar and egg whites. It has a soft, chewy texture with a characteristic cracked top and is eaten on its own. The Paris macaron is a sandwich of two almond meringue shells filled with ganache, buttercream or jam — a much more recent invention dating from the early 20th century. Poitiers macarons are simpler, older (dating to 16th-century nuns at the Couvent de Sainte-Croix) and less sweet, reflecting their convent origins as a humble almond biscuit rather than a luxury patisserie item. They also have a more rustic appearance with their cracked, irregular tops.
The best food market in Poitiers is Les Halles, the covered market at Place Charles de Gaulle, open Tuesday to Sunday mornings (7am-1pm). The Saturday market is the largest and liveliest, attracting farmers and artisan producers from across the Vienne department. It is the perfect place to buy Chabichou cheese, Haut-Poitou wine direct from the producer, macarons de Poitiers and seasonal produce. A smaller organic farmers' market operates on Wednesday mornings near the Palais des Comtes, offering certified organic fruit, vegetables, eggs and artisan bread. For the widest selection and the full Poitiers market experience, arrive at Les Halles before 10am on a Saturday.
The Haut-Poitou wine region surrounds Poitiers, producing fresh, aromatic wines from calcareous clay soils across the Vienne department. The flagship variety is Sauvignon Blanc — zesty, mineral-driven and often compared to Sancerre but much more affordable at EUR6-10 per bottle from the cooperative cellar. Other varieties include Chardonnay (rich, buttery styles), Gamay (fruity, light reds perfect slightly chilled), Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. The Cave des Vignerons du Haut-Poitou in Neuville-de-Poitou (15 minutes north of Poitiers by car) is a cooperative cellar representing over 80 growers. Domaine Petra on the outskirts of Poitiers and Domaine de la Batiere near Mirebeau also offer tastings by appointment.
Yes, Poitiers is excellent for food-lovers. The city sits at a crossroads of French culinary traditions — goat cheese country, wine country and confectionery history all converge here. The weekly markets are exceptional, the restaurant scene is diverse and affordable thanks to the 25,000-student population, and food miles are naturally short because most produce comes from within the Vienne department. The Haut-Poitou wine region produces excellent value wines. For the eco-conscious food traveller, Poitiers is a particularly rewarding destination because the local food culture is already aligned with sustainable principles — short supply chains, seasonal menus and strong farmers' market traditions.