From Comte cheese to vin jaune — the best food and dining in the capital of Bourgogne-Franche-Comte
Besancon sits right at the gateway to the Jura wine region and the Bourgogne-Franche-Comte countryside, making it an unexpected culinary heavyweight in eastern France. The city's food culture draws from the surrounding mountains, pastures, and vineyards — expect rich cheeses, smoked meats, foraged mushrooms, and wines that are unlike anything else in France. This guide covers the essential local dishes, the best restaurants in Besancon, the city's markets, and the day trips every food lover should take. After reading, book your eco-friendly stay in Besancon through IMPT — same price as Booking.com, with 5% cashback in IMPT tokens, EUR5 free credit, and 1 tonne de CO₂ éliminée par réservation.
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Find hotels in Besancon →The king of French mountain cheeses. Made from raw cow's milk in the Jura massif, Comte is aged for 4 to 24+ months in cellars. The flavour ranges from nutty and buttery in younger wheels to complex, almost meaty in extra-aged versions. In Besancon, you will find it on every cheese board, melted into fondues, or grated over salads. Look for artisan producers at the Saturday market — a 24-month Comte from a small fruitiere (dairy cooperative) is a revelation. The AOP designation guarantees authenticity, and the best producers use milk from Montbeliarde cows grazing on the lush Jura pastures.
A seasonal soft cheese made from winter milk, produced only between August and March. It comes in a distinctive spruce bark ring and has a creamy, almost liquid interior when ripe. Baked in its box with white wine, garlic, and a splash of cremant du Jura, it becomes a legendary winter fondue. Available at fromageries in Besancon's markets during the season — try it at Le Saint-Pierre restaurant in winter. The spruce bark gives Mont d'Or a subtle forest aroma that pairs beautifully with Jura white wines.
A smoked pork sausage from the town of Morteau (about 60 km from Besancon). It is smoked over pine, juniper, and spruce wood for at least 48 hours, giving it a deep amber colour and a distinctive smoky aroma. Traditionally served with potatoes and lentils — a classic Franche-Comte comfort dish. You will find it on menus across the city, especially in winter. The smoking process is protected by a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) designation, meaning only sausages produced in the Haut-Doubs region can bear the name.
The signature dish of the Jura. Chicken is slowly cooked in a sauce made from vin jaune (yellow wine), cream, and morels — the prized wild mushrooms of the Jura forests. The combination of the nutty, complex wine with earthy morels and tender chicken is extraordinary. This is a dish worth planning a meal around. Le Saint-Pierre does an excellent version. The morels used in this dish are foraged in the Jura mountains each spring and are highly prized by chefs across France.
A unique Franche-Comte speciality — a creamy, spreadable cheese made from Metton (a skimmed curd cheese) melted with butter, garlic, and white wine or milk. It has a runny texture and a mild, slightly tangy flavour. Locals eat it warm on bread or potatoes. You will either love it or find it an acquired taste, but it is a must-try. Available at any fromagerie in the city. It is also surprisingly low in fat for a cheese, making it a lighter option.
A traditional Franche-Comte almond cake, moist and dense with a delicate crumb. Flavoured with rum, vanilla, dried fruits, and sometimes a hint of aniseed. It has been made in Besancon bakeries for generations and is the perfect accompaniment to a coffee or a glass of Macvin du Jura (sweet fortified wine). Look for it at patisseries in La Boucle.
Location: 18 Rue de la Republique, Centre-Ville
An institution in Besancon. Le Saint-Pierre serves classic Franche-Comte cuisine with refined presentation. Their Comte souffle is legendary, and the wine list covers the Jura extensively — including rare vintages of Chateau-Chalon. The poulet au vin jaune aux morilles is exceptional. Mains around EUR20-30. Book ahead, especially on weekends. The dining room is elegant, with old wood panelling and white tablecloths — the setting matches the quality of the food.
Location: 8 Rue de la Republique, Centre-Ville
A lively bistro-cum-grill that offers a modern twist on regional ingredients. Known for its grilled meats, fresh salads, and generous portions. The terrace on Rue de la Republique is popular in summer. Reasonably priced with mains around EUR15-22. Their steak-frites with a glass of Arbois red is a solid choice. The weekday lunch formule at EUR14 is excellent value.
Location: 14 Rue Megevand, La Boucle
Famous for its flammekueche (tarte flambee) — thin Alsatian-style flatbreads with creme fraiche, onions, and bacon. They also do an excellent Comte-and-bacon version, and a vegetarian option with mushrooms and Mont d'Or. Casual, lively, and affordable (mains EUR10-16). Great for a relaxed lunch. The original location in the Battant quarter is equally good.
Location: 8 Avenue Edouard Droz, near Parc Micaud
A modern brasserie with panoramic views of the Doubs valley. The menu focuses on seasonal Franche-Comte ingredients with contemporary presentation. Their tasting menu (EUR45) is excellent value for the quality. The wine cellar features over 80 Jura references. A good choice for a special dinner with a view. The terrace overlooks Parc Micaud's lake.
Location: 7 Rue des Granges, Centre-Ville
A historic cafe-brasserie dating from the 19th century, on one of Besancon's most elegant streets. Serves classic French bistro fare — escargots, steak frites, confit de canard, and excellent cheese boards featuring local Comte and Mont d'Or. The weekend brunch is popular with locals. Mains around EUR14-20. The zinc bar and mosaic floors are a step back in time.
Location: 30 Rue de la Republique
A wine bar and restaurant specialising in Jura wines with small plates designed to pair. Over 50 wines by the glass, all from the Jura. The cheese and charcuterie boards are exceptional — perfect for a light lunch or apero. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the Jura's bewildering variety of grape varieties and winemaking styles.
The Jura wine region, centred around Arbois just 40 km south of Besancon, produces some of France's most distinctive wines. The region's signature grape is Savagnin, used to produce the famous vin jaune — a golden wine aged under a layer of flor yeast (like Sherry) for a minimum of 6 years and 3 months. The result is nutty, complex, and intensely flavoured, pairing perfectly with Comte cheese. A well-aged vin jaune is one of the world's most age-worthy white wines, capable of improving in bottle for decades.
Other Jura wines worth seeking out: Cremant du Jura (sparkling white or rose made by traditional method, excellent value at EUR8-12 a bottle), Macvin du Jura (a sweet fortified wine served as an aperitif, made by muting the fermentation of Savagnin or Chardonnay must with grape marc brandy), and still wines from Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir grapes. The best place to explore Jura wines is a day trip to Arbois, where most wineries offer free tastings. In Besancon, Le Saint-Pierre and Le Marche aux Vins have the best wine lists.
Location: Place des Arts, near the Musee des Beaux-Arts
An indoor covered market open Tuesday through Sunday mornings. The stalls overflow with Comte wheels, saucisses, fresh produce, charcuterie, and honey from Jura beekeepers. The fishmongers bring in trout from the Doubs and Loue rivers. Don't miss the fromagerie stands with their Mont d'Or displays in winter. The market also has a handful of excellent takeaway food stalls for a quick lunch.
Location: Place du 8 Septembre, La Boucle — Saturday mornings
The biggest and best market in Besancon. Farmers from across the Jura and Doubs regions sell seasonal fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, honey, and flowers. The atmosphere is electric — locals fill the square from 7am until 1pm. Buy a bag of walnuts, a wedge of 24-month Comte, some saucisse seche, a loaf of pain de campagne, and you have an instant picnic for the Parc Micaud or the Citadelle ramparts.
Location: Place d'Arguel, Battant — Saturday mornings
A smaller, more local market in the historic Battant quarter across the river. Specialises in organic and biodynamic produce, artisanal bread, and natural wines. Less touristy than the Place du 8 Septembre market, it is a favourite with Besancon's foodie community. The perfect place to find picnic supplies before a walk along the Doubs.
The must-visit destination for any food lover staying in Besancon. This charming town is the heart of the Jura wine region, birthplace of Louis Pasteur (who did his pioneering work on fermentation here), and home to dozens of family-run wineries. Visit Maison de la Vigne et du Vin for an introduction to Jura wines, then explore the tasting rooms along the Route des Vins du Jura. Many producers offer free tastings. The Saturday morning market in Arbois is excellent.
A UNESCO World Heritage saltworks (part of the same network as the famous Arc-et-Senans) with a fascinating history of salt production dating back to the Middle Ages. After the tour, try the local speciality — fleur de sel de Salins, hand-harvested sea salt from the ancient brine springs. Also worth seeking out: the local smoked fish, using the traditional Jura smoking methods.
Birthplace of the realist painter Gustave Courbet and one of the most beautiful villages in the Doubs valley. The river Loue runs through the centre, and the town is known for its trout fishing and smoked fish. Visit the Courbet Museum, then lunch at one of the riverside restaurants specialising in Jura cuisine.
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Search Besancon hotels →Besancon and the Bourgogne-Franche-Comte region are known for Comte cheese, Mont d'Or cheese (seasonal, August-March), saucisse de Morteau (smoked pork sausage), cancoillotte (creamy spreadable cheese), poulet au vin jaune (chicken in yellow wine sauce), and gateau de menage (traditional almond cake). The Saturday market at Place du 8 Septembre is the best place to sample local products.
The Marche Beaux-Arts indoor market and the Saturday market are the best budget options. L'Alsacien serves excellent tarte flambee from EUR10. For an affordable lunch, many brasseries offer a formule du jour (set menu) for around EUR12-15. Grand Cafe Foy on Grande Rue offers classic bistro fare at reasonable prices.
Jura wine is a distinctive wine region known for vin jaune (yellow wine aged under flor yeast for 6+ years), cremant du Jura (sparkling), and wines from Savagnin, Poulsard, and Trousseau grapes. The best place to try them is a day trip to Arbois (40 km south), where many wineries offer free tastings. In Besancon, Le Saint-Pierre restaurant has an extensive Jura wine list.